A Week in Marrakech

Where I stayed, where I ate, what I bought, and my advice for planning your own trip

Our bedroom at Riad Brummell

I can’t remember the last time I returned home from somewhere to immediately start planning a return trip. I’ve fallen head over heels for Marrakech, to the point that I’m going to have to make an annual pilgrimage there to satisfy my itch for delicious food, beautifully designed riads, relaxing hammams, and hunting down treasures in the souks. This wasn’t my first trip to Morocco’s most bustling city (I last visited in 2017), but I definitely fell harder this time.

This trip was a long time coming. The past couple of winters I have looked on with envy as friends and people I follow on social media flocked to Morocco to escape winter for a fleeting few days. I just needed to find the perfect travel companion, as I knew haggling in the souks and indulging in spas wouldn’t be my boyfriend’s cup of tea. When my friend Alice mentioned she wanted to go away for a few days in search of sunshine, everything fell into place.

This newsletter is going to be a long one, as there is just so much I want to share from my fleeting five days in what is now one of my favourite cities. Although my experiences were mostly positive, there were a couple of disappointments which I’ll share beyond the pay wall, along with some tips and insight for anyone plotting their own trip.

February is the perfect time to visit Marrakech

While February is technically Morocco’s winter, the temperature was perfect. Mornings were definitely chilly, but I found that a warm cardigan kept the chill at bay — only to be shed late-morning when the temperatures soared. Afternoons and evenings reached a balmy 27 degrees, with a dry heat that never felt humid. While I definitely don’t mind hotter weather, this heat was ideal for wandering around the souks and relaxing on rooftops. December and January will be colder (highs of around 20), while temperatures can soar to a scorching 50 degrees in the height of summer. February - early May or late September - November seem to be the ideal times to visit for warm temperatures that aren’t stifling hot.

Riad Brummell was a delight

Back in November, in the midst of booking this trip, I shared my recommendations for design-led hotels and riads in Marrakech where I’d love to stay. I secured two nights at Riad Brummell at the beginning of our trip (I received a press discount and free evening meal in exchange for me providing them with a small number of photographs) but actually really struggled to find somewhere to stay for the second half of our time in Marrakech. All the riads and hotels on my list seemed to be booked up or out of our budget — I definitely recommend booking your accommodation in advance, especially if you want to stay at one of the more popular riads.

One of the lovely little nooks and crannies to sit and relax at Riad Brummell

Riad Brummell was absolutely perfect for what I wanted from a riad. Tucked away in the heart of the souks, it was within a short walk of everywhere we dined, shopped and visited. The staff were incredibly friendly, helpful and knowledgeable of the medina — and the design was just beautiful. Minimal upon first glance, but with plenty of intricate details. Gold banding on door frames, pink tadelakt walls, ornate carvings, intriguing art works, huge brass bathtubs, wrought iron railings. Bougainvillea and trailing greenery adorned the cavity from the rooftop down to the central courtyard. Two plunge pools offered refreshing dips to cool off in the mid-afternoon heat. The breakfast here was especially wonderful: a three-tiered delight including fresh fruits, nuts, the best dates I’ve ever eaten, Moroccan fried bread (which I couldn’t get enough of), guacamole, amlou butter (almond butter with honey and argan oil, just wonderful), and a bowl of yoghurt and granola. Not to mention as much mint tea as you can drink and the freshest orange juice.

I relish staying in places with only a handful of rooms as not only does your stay feel more homely, but you don’t have to fight off other guests to lounge in all the wonderful nooks and crannies. Whether we were sprawling rooftop beside the pool or curled up beside one of the roaring fires in the evening, it always felt like we were the only ones staying there. Downstairs, the riad has two ‘fountain standard’ smaller rooms, while there are three ‘medina deluxe’ rooms upstairs. These are all unique — two of the upstairs rooms (ours included) boast huge brass tubs (ours was in the bedroom, next door’s was on their balcony), while the third room has a completely different design with a sunken stone bath nestled behind the bed.

I took so many photographs during my stay, so will share more from Riad Brummell on my blog soon.

Another place to sit and read at Riad Brummell