Field Notes: December
The end-of-the-year-wrap-up edition
This year seems to have flown by. I sit writing this three days before Christmas, on the shortest day of the year. Storm Pia is raging outside and my laptop is illuminated with the glow of the Christmas tree lights and a flickering candle (Mistletoe by PF Candles - my new favourite festive candle because it smells like fir trees). I’m feeling very festive, and I am very, very ready to sign off for Christmas.
I have now been self employed for an entire year. There have definitely been worrying times (several times this year I have looked at my bank account with dismay) but I’m ending the year feeling positive and excited about what 2024 will bring. Despite the constant worries about finding enough work and making enough money, I really love working for myself and (for the moment, at least) wouldn’t change anything.
I realise that my Substack has been a bit all over the place this past year, as I’ve been figuring out what exactly I want to share on here and what to focus on. My two main passions (and basically what I spend all my money on) are travel and books, so it makes sense that’s what I’ve gravitated towards. In the new year, I’ll be writing more about my slow travel tips and recommendations, sharing more accommodation lists (such as 50+ UK cabins and 50+ cosy cottages) and musings about slow travel (similar to my article about travel and climate change). There will also be many, many more lists of book recommendations, and I’ll also talk more about how I find new books to read and why I love reading so much. Thank you so much to all of you who subscribe to and read my Substack - it means the world, and I’m so happy to have found this community who have helped me fall back in love with blogging.
I’ll dedicate January’s Field Notes to looking ahead, but this edition is all about retrospective. Read on for my travel notes from the past year (including my favourite travel memories and the best places I stayed in 2023) and my 2023 edit of everything I’ve loved this past year.
Wishing you all a very happy new year!
Emma xx
TRAVEL NOTES
Despite only going abroad twice in 2023, the past year has been amazing for travel. I’ve visited so many different parts of the UK, stayed in incredible hotels, cabins and cottages, and really built my travel writing and photography business. I thought I’d end this year wishing I had travelled more, but I feel really content with the places I’ve seen and experiences I’ve had this year.
My favourite travel memories of 2023 include: sleeping in a mountain refuge in the French Alps, being serenaded by marmots and watching the sun set over the mountains; staying right by the water in a Mallorcan fisherman’s cottage, wading into the sea as soon as I woke up each morning; shooting for some of my favourite places to stay in the UK; swimming on the Cornish, Devonshire and Welsh coasts; and cosy autumnal getaways to Bath and Cumbria which made me realise how much I love travelling within the UK during the autumn months.
My top five favourite places I’ve stayed this year were hard to choose, as I’ve had so many amazing trips for both work and pleasure. But these are the five places that I would return to in a heartbeat. In no particular order:
I’ve stayed at Glebe House twice now (for my birthday, two years in a row) and it feels like a home from home. There’s nowhere else quite like it for the combination of beautiful decor, delicious food and such a cosy, welcoming ambiance. It’s really reasonably priced, and every single room is wonderfully considered. I’d move in permanently if they’d let me.
I’ve stayed at Fforest three times now, and with every visit it just seems to get better. I love how vast the site is, especially when you take into account the surrounded nature reserve. There’s just so much space to roam and explore. It also helps that the River Teifi is one of my favourite places to swim in the UK. I need to try out their other accommodations, but I adore the Garden Shacs - especially in summer, when you’re surrounded by the bounty of their beautiful kitchen garden.
I stayed at Homewood just last month, on assignment for Small Luxury Hotels. I felt like royalty during my stay here; sleeping peacefully in the largest bed I’ve ever had the pleasure of resting my head on, soaking in one of the two huge tubs in our bathroom and our own private hot tub, dining on delicious cuisine and enjoying the comforts of their incredible spa. I also really loved exploring the hotel’s grounds and the surrounding area - I really recommend visiting in the height of autumn to admire the riot of colour.
I began my 2023 travels with a short stay in this cosy cottage in North Norfolk. It is impeccably designed, with every single element carefully considered. I wanted to take home everything from the antique furniture and artworks to the handmade ceramics. The super-cosy bed, roaring woodburning stove and wonderfully warm underfloor heating makes Spinks Nest the perfect place to stay during the winter months. It also gets bonus points for its clever bath-shower combo. You can always lure me in with a good place to soak.
I stayed in this beautifully designed treehouse for a shoot at the end of November, and didn’t want to leave. It’s located in a wonderful area, with views of the Lake District through the huge windows and plenty to discover right on its doorstep - but I hardly left its home comforts during my stay. It’s another perfect place for a cosy autumn or winter getaway - I can’t decide my favourite moment out of watching the sun set over the mountains from the hot tub or snuggling up in front of the fire.
2023 EDIT
5 things: fashion
Five UK brands I love, who are producing beautiful garments while caring about the environment and their workers.
Half of my wardrobe is from The Simple Folk. I love how they design two small womenswear collections each year, focusing on seasonal staples that I wear over and over again.
Amy of Bug Clothing designs beautiful garments with a keen eye for style - but I also love how she uses her social media to talk about important issues.
Ren London designs beautifully considered garments that will stand the test of time. I own two of her shirts, both of which are treasured pieces in my wardrobe.
I love how Beyond Nine design clothes for all women. Their collections focus on garments for pregnant or breastfeeding women, but anyone can wear them. I own two pairs of their trousers, which are amongst the comfiest items in my wardrobe.
Jaggery London design beautiful, soft knitwear in a range of vibrant and neutral colours. Each piece feels really special.
5 things: interiors
Five people and places in interiors who inspire me when making decisions about my own home.
COAL Cornwall are an architecture and interior design studio who use a lot of bold colours, beautiful wallpaper and antique homewares in their work - ticking all the boxes for me.
I think The Venetian Pantry lives in my absolute favourite home. Every single detail of Martina’s home is impeccably considered, and I love how she mixes different materials to create rooms that feel layered and cosy.
Alice Grace Interiors has a talent for creating spaces that feel warm and cosy, effortlessly fusing traditonal and contemporary elements. I love her use of colour and attention to detail.
I love seeing glimpse into Tess Newall’s own home and garden, but it’s her wallpaper designs that I’m particularly obsessed with. Her floral illustrations are whimsical and pretty, conjuring up images of English country gardens.
Sterrekopje Farm in South Africa is perhaps the most impeccably designed retreat and hotel I have ever laid eyes upon. Every single detail is wonderful. If I ever have the pleasure of staying there, I will return with thousands of photographs that capture all the impeccably designed nooks and crannies.
5 things: Instagram
Five people I’ve loved following on Instagram this past year, for various reasons (this was so hard to narrow down to just five!)
@hannahedace is a hotel photographer and travel writer who has provided oodles of inspiration to me this year. I adore her film photography and love how she shares her work process - especially her shoot schedules.
I love how Eleanor of @aconsideredspace writes, and enjoy keeping up with her work via her Instagram account. As well as being a talented writer, she has a keen eye for design, sharing her interior finds on her feed.
Chloe of @novemberstudio_co is a travel photographer and videographer who constantly inspires me with her travel imagery, but also her advice for anyone trying to get into travel content creation.
@tashi_ka is one of my favourite photographers on Instagram. I especially love following her adventures with her partner Daniel and their dog in my favourite Nordic destinations.
Carrie of @wishwishwish has been one of my favourite creators for about 15 years now. She’s just on another level when it comes to photography and videography, and is a constant inspiration.
That’s all 2023! I’ll resume writing on here in the New Year - beginning with my list of my top ten reads of 2023. Happy New Year!
Emma xx










Wow thanks! I'll enjoy reading your thoughts on slow-travel - I've almost given up in despair at my carbon footprint, and moved to Aberystwyth instead!
And your clothing recommendations too. - most of my wardrobe is secondhand and/or a hundred years old